3 Zinnen/
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
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3 Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo Massif

9836 feet/2998 meters
South-Tyrol (Sextener Dolomits), Italy, Europe

Last update: April 15th, 2002
   © Copyright by Rahel Maria Liu


3 Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo

3 Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo, viewed from the North

 (Picture credit to: © Marco Milani/K 3 )
Overview

The " 3 Zinnen" are the symbol of the Italian Dolomits.
Thousands of tourists visit them every day, but only a few of them climb the summits. The 3 Zinnen include
  • the Westliche Zinne/Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (2973m)
  • the Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo (2998m)
  • the Kleine Zinne/Cima Piccola di Lavaredo (2857m).
    •

1. Westliche Zinne/Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (2973 m)

The Westliche Zinne is famous especially because of its ascents through the mighty roofs of the northface. Most interesting for climbers are the NE-edge, the Cassin-route and the swiss route. While the rock is polished in these routes very much, the other routes (although they are not less worthwhile) are still in a quite natural state. The rock is mostly solid and compact, and it has a very good grip.

The first ascent was undertaken by Michel Innerkofler with the tourist G. Ploner on 21. August 1879. Still in the 19th century, the E-face and also before the first world war the NE-face and the W-face were climbed. The NE-edge (Demuth-edge), which people today frequently like to climb, has not been opend before 1933. 2 years later, there was a hard conflict concerning the first climbing of the northface: Hintermeier and Meindl had fixed ropes for the roof-traverse, but had not finished the route. Cassin and Ratti instead used those ropes and destroyed them after having used. They finished the route. Concerning the first direct route through the northface in 1959, there was a quite similiar competition between the swiss people Schelbert/Weber and the Scoiattoli Bellodis and Franceschi. During the last years, people have been looking especially for new possibilities of free climbing routes.

2. Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo (2998 m)

The Große Zinne is the middle and the highest one of the 3 Zinnen. It provides a route for everybody: the nice and easy, but very polished normal route, some famous pleasure climbing routes with middle and higher difficulty, and a lot of very difficult, extreme routes. Although the northface of this Große Zinne does not have such a big break-off like the Westliche Zinne, it has an overhang of dozens of meters and the high difficulties are also located in the higher part of the face. Therefore, the northface has always been a symbol of highest difficulties of extreme climbing.

The first ascent was already in 1869 by P. Grohmann with the guides F. Innerkofler and P. Salcher. In 1908, the famous NE-edge (the so-called "Dibona-Edge") was climbed by R. Eller alone. But because this ascent has not been known by anybody for a long time, the edge got the name of the second climber. Before the first world war, H. Dülfer and W. von Bernuth opend the magnificent W-face-route. In 1933 finally, Emilio Comici and the brothers G. and A. Dimai climbed the northface.

3. Kleine Zinne/Cima Piccola di Lavaredo (2857 m)

The architecture of the Kleine Zinne is more broken up than those of the Westliche and Große Zinne. The slender summit tower is located on a big socle, which falls vertically down on each side. It has a clear-cut foresummit in the SE. The socle of the Kleine Zinne is connected with the Punta di Frida and the Preusstower. The characteristics of the climbing routes are little height of the rock and many possibilities to traverse out. All ascents are exposed and provide wonderful rock with very good grip. The rock is hard and very polished in the mostly climbed routes. In the less known routes, you can also find quite crumbling passages.

The guides Michel and Hans Innerkofler from Sexten has climbed the Kleine Zinne for the first time on 25. July 1881. With this climbing, they have put new standards for the climbing of their time. The first ascent by women was undertaken by the duchess Ada von Sermoneta in 1882. Ludwig Purtscheller, Emil and Otto Zsigmondy and Heinrich Koechlin were the first persons, who climbed the Kleine Zinne without any guide (in 1884). The first ascent in winter was by Theodor Wundt and his companions in december 1892. Like the first ascent of this mountain, the first ascent through the northface was a pioneering work: Sepp Innerkofler had climbed the northface alone, almost until the summit, before he descended (without any rope!) and brought up (together with his brother Veit) the client Hans Helversen. And you must not forget: At that time, the guides wore only nailed wooden clogs .... The E-face-chimney, which is today almost forgotten, has been one of the most difficult climbing routes of the 3 Zinnen for a long time. It has directly been climbed not until 1909 by Kurt and Ernst Kiene. Emilio Comici, Mary Varale and Renato Zanutti climbed for the first time the famous and very exposed Yellow Edge, "the characteristic, magnificent, yellow overhanging rock, which falls down to the depth below the obelisk of the southern foresummit almost unpossibly slender and slime like an awl" (Berti).

(According to Goedeke [1988], pp. 169-170, 192-193, 220-221)

Famous Routes:

A. Westliche Zinne
  • 1. Westliche Zinne, northface (Swiss Route):

  • A 3, VI-, 500 hm, 12-16 h, mostly with bivuoac (W. Pause, Im extremen Fels)
  • IX- (free,Goedeke)

  • 2. Westliche Zinne, northface (Italian Route):
  • A 3 and A 2, V + IV (Goedeke)

  • 3. Westliche Zinne, northface (Cassin):
  • A 3, VI-, 500 hm, 12-16 h (W.Pause)
  • VIII (free, Goedeke)

  • 4. Westliche Zinne, NE-edge (Demuth-edge):
  • VI- (if free; overhanging rock, otherwise: IV and III), 680 hm 4 - 5 h (Goedeke)
    •

B. Große Zinne
  • 1. Große Zinne, S-face: easiest route

  • III, 550 hm, 3-4 h (M. Pause, Im leichten Fels)
  • III, mostly II, 450 hm, 2-3 h (Goedeke)

  • 2. Große Zinne, NE-edge (Dibona):
  • IV, 450 hm, 3-4 h (Pause, Im schweren Fels).
  • IV (passages), mostly III+, III and II, 500 hm, 4 h (Goedeke)
    This route is objectively dangerous because of rockfall from people above oneself.

  • 3. Große Zinne, direct northface (Hasse/Brandler):
  • A 3, VI-, 550 hm, 12-16 h (W. Pause, Im extremen Fels)

  • 4. Große Zinne, northface (Comici):
  • A1,V+ (passages) and V; VII (free), 550 hm, 5-7 h (Goedeke)
    •

C. Kleine Zinne
  • 1. Kleine Zinne, S-ridge (Yellow ridge):

  • A 1 (1 rope length), VI-, 350 hm, 4-6 h (W. Pause, Im extremen Fels)

  • 2. Kleine Zinne, northface:
  • IV-, 330 hm, 3 h (Pause, Im schweren Fels)
    •

Routes Overview

1. WESTLICHE ZINNE:

  • normale route/S: II, 350 Hm, 2-3h
  • left S-face-chimney: IV (partly), 200 hm, 3h
  • middle S-face: V, mostly IV and III, 300 hm, 2 1/2 h
  • right S-face: A1, V+, 280 hm, 3,5 h
  • SE-ridge: V, 350 hm, 5h
  • E-face: IV (passages), 350 hm, 4h
  • NE-face: IV (sometimes), 400 hm 6h
  • direct NE-face: A0 (maybe), V, 500 hm, 5h
  • eastern northface: A3, V+, 4 days
  • left northface: A3 and A2, V+, 500 hm (250 overhanging), 12-14h
  • big roof: A 3, VI- (passages), 200 hm, 8-9h
  • right northface: A3 and A 2, V (passages), 300 hm,2-3 days
  • NW-ridge (Scoiattoli): A 3 (passage), V+, 500 hm, 10-12 h
  • NW-ridge (Harrer): A0 (short passage), V, mostly IV and III, 400 hm, 4h
  • W-face: IV+ (passage), mostly IV, 450 hm, 3 h
    •

2. GROSSE ZINNE:

  • SO-pillar ("Dabistebaff" - "Thereyouareflabbergasted"): V (2 passages), V- (1 rope length), IV- and III, 300 hm, 4 h
  • E-face: III, partly II, 450 hm, 4 h
  • direct ENE-face: III, 350 hm, 4h
  • ENE-face (diagonal): III, 350 hm, 4h
  • left northface (via Camillotto Pellesier): A2, mostly A1, V and IV, 400 hm, 6-8 h
  • northface (spain route): A3, VI, 550 hm, a few days
  • direct northface (Diretissima): A0, VI- (passages), V+, V and IV, 550 hm, 8-14 h
  • northface (saxonian route/Superdirettissima): A2, V+, 550 Hm, 9-11h
  • NW-pillar (La Strada): A3 and A2, VI and V, 400 hm, 40 h
  • NW-blending: A2, VI- (passages), 400 hm (till ringband), 9-12 h
  • direct NW-edge: A 3, V+ (5 rope lengths), V (3 rope lengths), 400 hm (till ringband), 21 h
  • NW-edge: A0 (passage), V (passages), mostly IV, 300 hm, 4 h
  • left W-face (Via Sandro Pertini): A, VI+, crumbling rock, 300 hm
  • W-face (Dülfer): V+ (1 passage), 250 hm, 2-3 h
  • SW-edge: VI+ (passage, free), otherwise V+/A 0, 250 hm, 2-3 h
  • S-face (Mosca-chimney): III, 500 hm, 3 h
  • chimney Klug: IV- and III
  • direct S-face: A0 (maybe), V, mostly IV, in the lower part III and II, 500 hm, 3-4 h
    •

3. KLEINE ZINNE

  • normal route from SW: IV- (passage), mostly III and II, 300 hm, 2-3 h
  • W-face: V+ (passages), mostly V, 250 hm, 3-4 h
  • NW-ridge: A2 and A1 (passages), VI, 300 hm , 8-10 h
  • northface (Fehrmann-chimney): V+ (passages), the rest V and IV, 250 hm, 4-5 h
  • northface (Innerkofler): IV- (passages) mostly III, 350 hm, 3 h
  • route around the E-rigde (Heinlein): IV, 130 hm, exposed
  • E-rigde of the main summit: A 1 (1 passage), V+, mostly IV+ and IV, 200 hm, 4 h
  • E-face: V, mostly IV and III, 350 hm, 3-4 h
  • SE-face to the foresummit: A1, V+ (free: VI), 330 hm, 3-5 h
  • S-rigde to the foresummit: VI (2 passages), VI- and V (free), otherwise V and A0, 330 hm, 3-5 h
  • S-face of the foresummit: VI+ and VI (free), otherwise VI- (shortly), V+ and V with A0, 280 hm, 3-5 h
  • SW-blending of the foresummit: VI- (passage) and V
  • SW-edge of the foresummit: V (passage), mostly IV+, 150 hm, 2 h

according to Goedecke
Getting There

1. To the 3 Zinnen/Tre Cime di Lavaredo:
  • a. You can come from the Dreizinnenhütte.
  • b. You can come from the Rif. Lavaredo.
  • c. You can come from the Auronzohotel.
    •

2. To the Dreizinnenhütte:
  • You reach the hut from Sexten. You start at the Dolomitenhof and go in 3 h or start at the Talschlußhütte and go in 2,5 h (900 hm, 6km) on a wide marked way (no. 102) via the Fischleinboden. The landscape is wonderful. At the Dolomitenhof, there are parking places. From here, you go on a road to the Talschlußhütte (Rif. Fondo Valle; bus till here). Now you climb up the Altensteiner Valley in SW-direction. Before the Innichriedl, you turn left along the Bödenssen to the hut.

  • You reach Sexten/Sesto (1316m) by car or bus from Innichen/San Candido (1173m). Innichen has a train station.

  • You reach Innichen on the road no. E66 from Brixen/Bressano. You reach Brixen on the A 13 from Innsbruck (N) or Bozen/Bolzano (S). Bozen and Innsbruck have airports.

  • You reach the hut form Höhlenstein (Landro) in 3,5 h (6 km, 1000hm) on the marked way no. 102. It is seldom climbed, but very beautiful. Höhlenstein (Landro) is only the rest of an old village. It is located 500 m northern of the junction of the Valley of the Black Rienz (Val Rimbon). You follow the long valley on the marked way (no. 102) straight on until you reach the hut.

  • You reach Landro by car from Toblach via Rienz (N) or from Cortina d'Ampezzo via Misurina from the South.
    •

3. To the Rif. Lavaredo:
  • You reach the hut either from the Auronzohotel on a wide, horizontal road (without cars) in 1/2 h or from the Dreizinnenhütte via the Paternsattel in about 1/2 h or from Val d'Ansiei via Valle Marzon and Valle di Cengia in 4 h: seldom climbed, long valley ascent, beautiful landscape. From the junction Valle Marzon (bus station Santo di Val Marzon) on a road the Valle Marzon up to Cason de la Crosera (1207m). You continue 700m further the valley up. After the first zigzag, you turn to the right on the way to the Vall die Cengia. You go this valley up zu the lower Pian di Cengia and further to the hut.

  • You reach the starting point on the road by car or bus either from Misurina (W) or Giralba (E).
    •

4. To the Auronzohotel
  • You reach the hotel by car or bus from Misurina, 8 km.

When To Climb

  • Summer: rock climbing
  • Winter: skitouring around the 3 Zinnen (or rock climbing if you are able to ....)

    		•
    Camping and/or Accomodation

  • In Sexten

    		•
    Mountainhuts

    1. 3-Zinnen-Hütte/Rif. Locatelli alle Tre Cime (2405 m):

    The 3-Zinnen-Hütte is a big hut at the Toblinger Riedl. It is situated between the 3 Zinnen, the Paternkofel and the Dreischustergroup.
      according to Goedeke:
      - 190 beds
      - serviced from 20. June to 30. September
      - internet: 3-Zinnen-Hütte

    2. Lavaredohütte/Rif. Lavaredo

    The Lavaredohütte is a little, private hut which is situated near the Patternsaddle, southern below the Kleine Zinne.
      according to Goedeke:
      - 45 beds
      - seviced from 15. June till 10. October
      - internet: Rif. Lavaredo

    3. Auronzohotel/Rif. Auronzo (2330m)

    The Auronzohotel is a hotel which is situated on the S-side of the 3 Zinnen.
      according to Goedeke:
      - 115 beds
      - serviced the whole year
      - internet: Rif. Auronzo

    Mountain Conditions and General Information

    1. GENERAL INFOS:
    2. WEATHER
    Maps

  • Carta turistica/Wanderkarte
    1:25000 no. 2: Misurina.Tre Cime di Lavaredo/3 Zinnen

  • Kompass
    1:50000 no. 58: Sextener Dolomiten

    		•
    Books

  • Richard Goedeke, Sextener Dolomiten. Alpenvereinsführer. 2nd ed. Munich 1988.
    ISBN 3-7633-1255-2

  • Michael Pause, Im leichten Fels. Munich et al. 1992.
    ISBN 3-405-13292-4

  • Walter Pause, Im schweren Fels. New ed.: Michael Pause. Munich et al. 1985.
    ISBN 3-405-12909-5

  • Walter Pause, Im extremen Fels: 100 Kletterführen in den Alpen. 2nd ed. Munich et al 1977.
    ISBN 3-405-11742-9

    		•