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Similaun
11830 feet/3606 meters
Tyrol (Ötztal), Austria, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Similaun (middle) from the Northwest
(Picture credit to: ©
Ludek Novák
)
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Overview
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The Similaun is a beautiful
mountain with a big northface in the east alps. You can see
it from far away. It is situated southwestern of the Similaunjoch.
In this region the "Ötzi" has been found. In the East,
it has a clear-cut iceflank and firn and ice ridges to NE and
NW. On the E-side there goes a steep rockflank down. In Sommer and
winter (by ski) many people climb this mountain. There are many
different routes to reach the summit.
In the region of the southern border crest of the Ötztaler
Alps, there are many relatively little icefaces. But partly,
they are very steep. The mountaineer who wants to try icefaces
for the first time, finds a lot of very beautiful faces in
this region. It is also very useful as training. Besides the
Similaun N-Face, there also, for example, the Hintere Schwärze
N-face, The Mittlere Marzellspitze N-Face, the Westliche
Marzellspitze-N-face, the Finailspitze, the Mutmalspitze
and the
Northface
of the
Ramolkogel
which one can recommend. But the most famous one is
the Similaun-N-face. Iceclimbers like it very much. It is
simply a pleasure tour. The first ascent of this N-face was
undertaken by G. Schöpf and S. Raffel 1907, the first
direct ascent by K. Jäger and H. Mayr in 1935.
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Routes Overview
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1. Normal route/west ridge
- from the Martin-Busch-Hut (3 1/2 to 5 hours) or
from the Similaunhut (1-2h); descent: W-ridge in 3/4 h
to Similaunhütte, 2 h to Martin-Busch-Hütte
2. East-ridge:
- steep firn flank, from Martin-Busch-Hut, 1 h from
Similaunjoch
3. South-ridge:
- from Vorderkaser (6-7h) or from Mittelkaser (5-6h)
or from Unser Frau (6-7 h)
4. Marzellkamm:
- from Martin-Busch-Hut, 4-5 h, exhausting
5. Northface:
- 55°, 3-4h (Klier)
- 45°, much steeper at the end! 350 hm, face:
2,5-4 h (
Vanis
)
According to Klier
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Getting There
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1. To the Similaun:
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a. You can come from the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m).
- b. You can come from the Similaunhütte
(3019m).
2. To the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):
-
You reach the hut from Vent in Ötztal in 2 1/2 h. You have
only to follow the wide road (without cars). It is marked with
the number 923. It is a very beautiful way with a wonderful
view through the valley along the river. There is no problem
on this road.
- You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal
from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden
and Zwieselstein with bus/taxi or car. In Zwieselstein,
you have to turn right to the Venter Tal.
- You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal
Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from Bludenz
(W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at Ötztal.
3.To the Similaunhütte (3019m):
-
You reach the hut a. from Vent via Martin-Busch-Hut in 4-5h on
a partly marked way, and b. from Vernagt in 3-4h. It is a marked
way (no. 2). You need a secure step. If there is snow it
could be a little bit tricky.
- You reach Vernagt on the road from Naturns/Naturno
via Madonna di S. Naturns is just a few kilometers western
of Meran. You reach it from Meran on the road no. ss38.
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When To Climb
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The whole year.
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Mountainhuts
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1. Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):
The Martin-Busch-Hütte is situated southeastern
below the Kreuzspitze, in the back Niedervalley.
according to Klier:
- 176 beds
- winter room with 15 beds (open)
- serviced from 1. March till Whitsun and from 25.
June till the end of september
- phone: ++43(0)5254/8130 (valley)
- internet:
Martin-Busch-Hütte
2. Similaunhütte (3019m):
The Similaunhütte is situated above the W-side
of the Niederjochglacier on italian territory. Official border
transition: 30. june to 30. september.
according to Klier:
- 60 beds
- serviced from the end of february to middle of
may, middle june to middle october
- phone: ++43(0)5254/8119 (Austria) or ++390(0)473/89711
(Italy)
- internet:
Similaunhütte
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. GENERAL INFOS:
2. WEATHER
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Maps
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Alpenvereinskarte
1:25000 no. 30/1 Ötztaler Alpen. Gurgl
(to order at DAV
Service
)
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Books
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Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen.
Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
Erich
Vanis
, Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980.
ISBN 3-405-12158-2
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