- Northface


11646 feet/3550 meters
Tyrol (Ötztal), Austria, Europe

Last update: April 15th, 2002
   © Copyright by Rahel Maria Liu


Ramolkogel from the Northeast

(Picture credit to: © Roman Meyer )


The Ramolkogel is a big rock and glacier massif with a few summits: Großer Ramolkogel (3550m), Mittlerer Ramolkogel (3518m), Kleiner Ramolkogel (3351m). On the east side of the Mittlerer Ramolkogel is also the Nördlicher Ramolkogel (Anichspitze, 3428m), which is often climbed together with the Großer and Mittlerer Ramolkogel. Altogether often climbed.

Routes Overview

1. Normal route/NO-ridge to the Mittlerer Ramolkogel + O-ridge to the Großer Ramolkogel:
  • II (2 passages), 3 h from Ramolhaus, mostly rock, some firn and ice
2. S-ridge to the Mittlerer Ramolkogel:
  • II, 2-3 h from Ramolhaus
3. NW-ridge:
  • III and II, 5 h from Vent, 7 h via Latschglacier
4. Northface:
  • 50°, 400 hm, 2-3 h (face)
5. NE-face

6. Descent through the S-flank to the Spiegelglacier
  • III, II
7. Traverse Mittlerer Ramolkogel - Nörderkogel
  • II, mostly easier, 4-4,5 h to the Gurgler Schartl, from here 3 h to the Nörderkogel. Beautiful, but staying power necessary
According to Klier

Getting There

1. To the Ramokogel:
  • a. You can come from the Ramolhaus.
  • b. You can come from Vent.
2. To the Ramolhaus:
  • You reach the hut from Obergurgl (1910m) in Ötztal on the marked hiking way no. 902 in 3,5 - 4 h. This is a wide way without any problems. You cannot miss it. You only have to follow this way through the valley until you reach the hut.

  • You reach Obergurgl on the road through the Ötztal from Ötztal (trainstation, 692m)) via Ötz, Sölden and Zwieselstein. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn left (to the Gurgl Tal) and leave the Venter Tal to the right (which goes to Vent).

  • You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at Ötztal.
3. From Vent to the NW-ridge:
  • You reach the NW-ridge from Vent in 5 h. In Vent, you start behind the hotel "Vent" with SW-direction from the village. You follow a good way up to the Ramolalm, 2218. You turn left over the Ramolbach and traverse the grass hangs in steep zigzag till you reach the tongue of the Spiegelglacier. You go the northern valley side of the Spiegeltal up. You leave the way and go northeastern to the Rotkarle. You go over lumps of rocks and firn passages to the beginning of the NW-ridge.

  • You reach the NW-ridge from Vent via the Latschglacier in 7h. You go to the Ramolalm (see above). Here, you traverse to the NE over very steep hangs to the valley of the Latschbach. You continue along the stream to the Latschglacier. At the SW-side of the glacier, you go over the moraine bo the NW-ridge.
When To Climb

  • Summer (june-september)

  • Mountainhuts

    Ramolhaus (3006m)

    The Ramolhaus is situated at the SE-hang of the back Gurgl valley, on a rock peak above the tongue of the Gurgl glacier.
      according to Klier:
      - 64 beds
      - serviced from the beginning of july till 20. september
      - winter room with 10 beds (key of the German Alpine Club necessary!)
      - phone: ++43(0)5256/223 and 224 (valley)
      - internet: Ramolhaus
    Mountain Conditions and General Information

    2. WEATHER

  • Alpenvereinskarte
      1:25000 no. 30/1 Ötztaler Alpen. Gurgl
      (to order at DAV Service )
  • Books

  • Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen. Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
    ISBN 3-7633-1123-8