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Mont Maudit

Éperon Gousseault

(In remembrance of Serge Gousseault, who died in 1971 during
an attempt to open a new route in the Northface of Grandes Jorasses.
More information on his tragedy
)

Last update: November 23rd, 2003
   © Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu

Eperon Gousseault

Draw of the new route on Mont Maudit: Éperon Gousseault

Picture credit to © Ivano Ghirardini
 
Overview

Type: Mixed Climb (Rock and Ice)
Difficulty:   D, V (Rock), 50° (Ice)
Time Required: 1 day (2 to 3 days including approach and way back)

Approach
 
The starting point is Col de la Brenva on 4303 m. The easiest way to reach Col de la Brenva is the traverse of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the normal route and Mont Maudit via the normal route .

From Col de la Brenva go down and traverse the glacier "Le Corridor" with NW-direction to the Bergschrund of the SW-face on about 4010m.

Route Description

First Ascent: 28. July 2002: Ivano Ghirardini (France) and Rahel Maria Liu (Germany)
Overview: Éperon Gousseault is very logical route through the SW-face of Mont Maudit (Pointe Mieulet), which consists mainly of a 300 m high rock spur. It ends on the NW-ridge of Mont Maudit.

The route got its name in rememberance of the mountainguide Gousseault from Provence (France), who died in 1971 at the age of 24 during the attempt of a new route throught the northface of Grandes Jorasses.
Ascent description: Éperon Gousseault has altogether 14 pitches:
1st pitch: Snow-/Ice climbing of about 45° to 50°
2nd pitch: Rock climbing UIAA grade IV
3rd pitch: Rock climbing to grade V
4th to 14th pitch: Mostly rock climbing grade III. In the upper part also some snow-/ice climbing to 50°, when you traverse the snow-/ice couloir on the right of the rock spur.

Follow always the ridge of the rock spur straight on, till you reach the NW-ridge of Mont Maudit on about 4315m, which you follow to Col du Mont Maudit (easy rock climbing of about grade II, some passages III).
Descent:
Either via the normal route of Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul to Aiguille du Midi or via Mont Blanc
Report: Opening of this route on July 28, 2002

Essential Gear

1 or 2 ice axes, crampons, rope, slings, friends, nuts, ice screws.