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Hinterer Brochkogel
11925 feet (3635 meters)
Tyrol (Ötztal), Austria, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Hinterer Brochkogel from the Northeast
(Picture credit to: ©
DAV Breslau
)
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Overview
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The Hinterer Brochkogel
is a little mountain with an interesting northwestface. In
combination with the northfaces of the Petersenspitze and
the Taschachwand it is part of the so called "Ötztaler
Eisexpress". But because in summer the northface of the Taschachwand
is quite snowless and therefore objectively dangerous, people
today normally climb only the northface of the Petersenspitze
and the NW-face of the Hinterer Brochkogel and add the NW-ridge to
the Wildspitze instead of the Taschachwand. Besides the northface
there are different ways to the summit (SE-ridge, S-ridge,
SW-flank, W-flank, W-ridge, N-ridge, NE-face). Many people
go there, mostly the normal route (SE-ridge) in combination
with the Wildspitze.
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Routes Overview
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1. SE-ridge (normal way)
- partly ice, 1 h, from Breslauer Hütte, Braunschweiger
Hütte, Vernagthütte, Taschachhaus
2. S-ridge
- 3-4 h, a little bit rock climbing, from Vernagthütte
3. SW-flank
4. W-flank
5. W-ridge:
- II (passages) (cornices!), best ascent from Vernagt
6. NW-face
- 45°-50°, 250 hm, face: 1,5 h, wonderful
ice tour
7. N-ridge
- steep ice-ridge, 2 h, middle difficult
8. NE-face
- 200 hm, ice flank, but in the topmost part rock,
less difficult and steep than the NW-face, big danger
of rockfall
according to Klier
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Getting There
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1. To the Hinterer Brochkogel:
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a. You can come from the Taschachhaus (2433 m).
- b. You can come from the Vernagthütte/Würzburger
Haus (2766 m).
- c. You can come from the Breslauer Hütte (2840
m).
- d. You can come from the Braunschweiger Hütte
(2759 m).
2. To the Taschachhaus:
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You reach the Taschachhaus: from the Taschachalm or from
Mittelberg (1616m) in 2-2,5 h on a road (at the beginning). It is
a marked way all the time, which you have to follow straight
on. You can see the Taschachhaus. The long way on the road
is quite even until you reach the station of the material
cable car. You can also go by mountainbike to this place
and leave your mountain bike here. From this point, you
have to continue on a smaller hiking way which goes steeper
up behind the bridge. Follow this way over the hangs till
you reach the hut.
- You reach Mittelberg by bus or car on the road
through the Pitztal from Imst (train station) via Wenns,
St. Leonhard and Plangeross.
- You reach Imst by train or car on the A12 from
Innsbruck (airport) in the E or mostly on the road E60 from
Bludenz in the W.
3. To the Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m):
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You reach the hut from Vent to the hut: in 3,5 to 4 h. You
have to follow the marked hiking way no. 920. You only have to
follow the valley all the time.
- You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal
from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden
and Zwieselstein. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn right
to the Venter Tal.
- You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal
Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from
Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at
Ötztal.
4. To the Breslauer Hütte (2840 m):
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You reach the hut to the hut: from Vent in 2,5-3 h or with the
cable car 1 h less. You have to follow the marked hiking way
all the time. There is nothing special or difficult.
5. To the Braunschweiger Hütte (2759 m):
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a. from Mittelberg in 3 h on a marked hiking way. Nothing
special or difficult. Simple hiking.
- b. from the Gletscherbahn-middle-station in 1 h:
Easy glacier walk. This is the shortest ascent. You cannot
miss the hut.
- c. from Sölden over the Pitztaler Jöchl
on a marked way in 5,5 h; you go from Sölden to the
Rettenbachtal and to the Rettenbachglacier (to the highest
parking place on the glacier route at 2800m). You climb
up the northeastern glacierpart to the Pitztaler Jöchl.
Now you turn right, with W-direction, from the Jöchl
in 20 min. to the Niedere Karlesschneid and in zigzag down
to the hut. From the parking place in Rettenbach in 2 h.
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When To Climb
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Summer (June to September)
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Mountainhuts
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1. Taschachhaus (2433 m)
The Taschachhaus is situated on the Pitztaler Urkund,
on a green plateau above the tongues of the Taschach- and
the Sexegertenglacier.
according to Klier:
- 125 beds
- winter room with 16 beds in the old hut (open)
- serviced from end of june to september
- phone: ++43(0)5413/8239 (in the valley: ++43(0)5413/8205
or 8220)
- internet:
DAV
or
Taschachhaus
2. Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m)
The Vernagthütte is situated in the end of the Rofenvalley
on the N-side of the Guslarglacier.
according to Klier:
- 174 beds
- winter room with 20 beds (open), in an own hut
near the main hut (30 m)
- serviced from the beginning of march until the
middle of may, at Whitsun, from the end of june until
the end of september
- phone (valley): ++43(0)5254/8128
- internet:
Vernagthütte
3. Breslauer Hütte (2840 m):
The Breslauer Hütte is situated at the foot
of the Ötztaler Urkund and at the N-hang of the Rofental.
according to Klier:
- 221 beds
- winter room with 12 beds (open)
- serviced from end of june until the beginning of
october
- phone: ++43(0)5254/8156 (valley: ++43(0)5254/8153)
- internet:
Breslauer Hütte
4. Braunschweiger Hütte (2759 m):
The Braunschweiger Hütte is situated in the end of the
Pitztal on a hilltop above the Karlesglacier.
according to Klier
- 150 beds
- serviced from middle june till middle october
- winter room with 11 beds open
- phone: ++43(0)5413/8236 (valley: ++43(0)5413/535)
- internet:
Braunschweiger Hütte
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. GENERAL INFOS:
2. WEATHER
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Maps
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Alpenvereinskarte
1:25000 no. 30/6: Ötztaler Alpen. Wildspitze
(to order at
DAV Service
)
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Books
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Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen.
Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
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